Scottish Castles Association

A group of more than 30 of us enjoyed our Autumn Tour to the Black Isle and Nairnshire. From our base in Beauly we visited a wonderfully diverse group of castles – and the fact that much of this early September weekend was wreathed in mist only served to heighten the sense of history and romance.

This beautiful part of the country played a key role in shaping Scotland’s history, and our President, Richard Oram, gave us insights into the early power struggles that played out in the strongholds here. Clan connections were much in evidence, as was the complex influence of the Jacobite Risings, where the ancestors of our some of our hosts had fought on opposite sides. Their family stories and the portraits on their walls brought history powerfully to life.

Our visits took in castles ranging from Ormond, with the remains of this once extensive fortress barely visible in the undergrowth, to the magnificent Cawdor, with its continuous developments over the centuries all evident and in use, from the 14th century tower to Victorian additions. We saw a variety of successful approaches to restoration and maintenance: castles as family homes, major tourist attractions, and self-catering and hotel operations, with support from historical associations, clans and trusts.

We offer our warmest thanks to all our hosts, who welcomed us to their castles with great kindness and generosity. We are also grateful to our Council Members Alastair Milne and Paul Mowbray for organising the tour, and to our volunteer drivers Billy Kirkwood, David Campbell and Elaine Mearns.

Friday 6th September

For those arriving early, we organised Friday afternoon visits to Ormond Castle and Castle Craig, both on the Black Isle.

Ormond Castle

We approached along a grassy path to Ormond Hill, where only the foundations of the 12th century Ormond Castle now remain – just visible under the late summer vegetation – together with a rock-cut well. This was a strategic, extensively fortified site overlooking the Moray Firth, and the indications are that Ormond was substantial, with a double system of curtain walls around the summit, creating two outer courtyards and an inner courtyard. Defensive ditches suggest the castle was built within the larger footprint of an earlier hill fort. Also known as Castle of Avoch, Ormond is said to have been destroyed in 1650, perhaps by Cromwell’s army, and the stone used to build the Citadel of Inverness.

Castle Craig

Standing in a strong and supremely picturesque position overlooking the Cromarty Firth, this 16th century tower house was probably built for the Urquharts, Barons of Cromarty, and was later occupied by the Bishops of Ross. We were treated to an archaeological tour by Scottish Castles Association member and archaeologist Connie Rodriguez. Connie conducted excavations here with a team of students before the Covid pandemic, and she told us how they had uncovered a series of walls outside the original courtyard, indicating expansive gardens and policies. She explained the layout of the castle, which is a building of high quality – unusually, all the main floors were vaulted and features such as the elaborate mouldings on the walkways and turrets remain in evidence, indicating the wealth of the builder.

Saturday 7th September – The Black Isle

Moniack Castle

We were welcomed by Harry Fraser to Moniack Castle, a 17th century L-plan tower extended with Georgian and Victorian additions to create a delightful and spacious family home. Moniack’s roofline has been much altered over the centuries, reflecting architectural fashion, and the tower has recently been re-roofed to prevent water ingress. We enjoyed Harry’s family stories over coffee followed by a tour.

Redcastle

This aptly named and striking L-plan tower house of red sandstone dates from the 16th century and was built on the site of Edirdovar (Eradour) Castle, dating back to the 12th century. Redcastle was remodelled in 1840 by architect William Burn and occupied well into the following century.

Our host James Baillie showed us the work he has carried out to preserve the castle and shared his hopes that over time at least part of Redcastle will be in use by future generations. James has made impressive progress, consolidating the building, clearing the site of overgrown vegetation and saplings, making secure the entry to the castle, removing the surrounding Heras fencing and clearing a magnificent view through parkland to the Beauly Firth. We congratulated him on this work, particularly the opening up of the view of the castle frontage by removing the fencing and replacing it with bars on the entrances.

Dingwall Castle

Our President provided an insightful and entertaining history of what was once an important royal castle – all that remains today is an ivy-covered wall with a vaulted cellar below.

Fought over during the Wars of Independence, Dingwall was granted by King Robert to the Earl of Ross, and remained in Ross ownership for more than a century. The castle fell into disrepair in the 1600s and was levelled in 1817. Much of the original stone is thought to have been used in the construction of Castle House, a Georgian house built on the site for a sea captain.

Tulloch Castle

We lunched at the impressive and welcoming Tulloch Castle Hotel in Dingwall, in one of the fine Lorimer rooms, the Grand Hall, with its elegant plasterwork ceiling. The building we see today is based around the 16th century tower house which is still very much in evidence, with extensive first-floor vaults and a turnpike stair. The original Great Hall above is now a fabulous hotel bedroom, with a huge copper bathtub positioned to provide extensive views over the valley. Tulloch was in the ownership of the Bains of Tulloch (also known as Bane or Bayne) for three centuries until the mid 1700s, when it was sold to the Davidsons and became the seat of the Clan Davidson. The castle was damaged by fire in 1845, extended in 1891 and further altered by Sir Robert Lorimer in the 1920s.

Castle Leod

On our approach to the magnificent Castle Leod, the mist cleared and the sandstone sang in the sunshine. A 17th century L-plan tower house of five storeys with Victorian and Edwardian additions, Leod is the seat of the Earls of Cromartie, chiefs of the Clan Mackenzie. The third Earl forfeited his estates after the 1745 Jacobite Rising; they were restored three decades later.

We were treated to a tour of the interior by guide Jonathan McColl. The history of the Mackenzie clan chiefs is recorded on the elaborately panelled walls, and Clan Mackenzie support is in evidence.

Generations of the family have been notable tree planters and the policies are listed as nationally significant. They feature several important specimens, including a sweet chestnut planted in the 1500s for Mary of Guise and a giant sequoia said to be the largest in the world at its latitude.

Castle Leod is widely believed to be the inspiration behind fictional Castle Leoch, which features in the Outlander books and TV series.

Foulis Castle

Our host Ohma Munro and Clan Chief Hector Munro welcomed us to Foulis Castle, where a fine Georgian mansion had extended the footprint of the original 17th century L-plan tower house. The Georgian house shows clear continental influence, and Hector explained how this reflected the fact that the young laird of the time was educated at Leyden University in Holland, a popular choice for Scottish scholars in the early 1700s. The house incorporates some of the walling of the tower house – the gun loops and vaulting show its much earlier origins.

The main road northwards once ran through the courtyard to the rear of the house. The courtyard became a working farmyard, and was later transformed into today’s charming courtyard garden.

Ohma and Hector gave us a fascinating tour of the house, which revealed just how many of the Munro family had been at the centre of Scottish history: every portrait told a story, beautifully recounted by Hector. As we approached the drawing room, we were welcomed by the strains of a Neil Gow air being played by an accomplished pianist – the perfect backdrop to our visit.

Ohma is an Airbnb superhost, and her delightful properties in the courtyard are a treat for members of the clan who visit.

Fairburn Tower

Fairburn is a great success story: a 16th century tower, formerly a roofless shell and now exquisitely restored as holiday accommodation by The Landmark Trust, this year’s winner of our Scottish Castles Association Nigel Tranter Memorial Award. So popular is this four-storey gem that this Open Day was the only opportunity to visit Fairburn – it was fully booked for the rest of the year. We enjoyed a private tour after the Open Day visitors had departed.

It was heartening to see the restoration that has breathed new life into Fairburn, including an exuberant new painted ceiling in the Renaissance style by artist and Scottish Castles Association member Paul Mowbray, who told us the story of its creation. Paul used as his reference the ceiling in the Rohaise Room at Delgatie Castle, and he consulted pattern books used by 16th century artists. The motifs Paul included are mainly 16th century, but some also tell the story of Fairburn’s restoration, and there is even a self-portrait of the artist!

The builder of Fairburn Tower, Murdo Mackenzie, was a Groom to the Bedchamber of James V and was granted the lands of Fairburn by the King in 1542 and instructed to build a new house with orchards and a garden. He would have been familiar with the latest Renaissance decorative fashions in our royal palaces and he applied these in creating his own home.

We ended the day with a convivial gathering at The Corner on the Square, Beauly, where we enjoyed an excellent supper.

Sunday 8th September – Nairnshire

Cawdor Castle

Our first stop was the glorious Cawdor Castle, Nairn. The seat of the Campbell Thanes of Cawdor for 600 years, Cawdor shows clearly how the castle has been developed, extended and remodelled to suit the needs and tastes of successive generations, creating today’s magnificent home. The original 14th century tower sits prominently at its heart, and on a tour of Cawdor’s interior we progressed from one century to the next, through successive styles of Scottish domestic architecture - and a series of beautifully appointed family rooms - right up to today’s contemporary kitchen. The many treasures we saw included rare Flemish tapestries, some made for Cawdor in the 1600s. Not every development has gone smoothly: the massive carved stone mantlepiece in the drawing room was installed in 1671, and while the stone was being carried in, the drawbridge fell, injuring 24 men.

The magnificent gardens include one of Scotland’s oldest walled gardens, dating back to the Renaissance, and a flower garden laid out in the 17th century. The wild garden was planted in the 1960s between the castle and the Cawdor Burn and provides Spring interest.

Cawdor is a very successful five-star visitor attraction, and 1,500 visitors were expected over the weekend.

Daviot Castle

Scant remains of a 15th century tower and courtyard are all that can be seen of Daviot Castle, perched on a promontory reaching out from the present Daviot House above the deep valley of the River Nairn. We were welcomed by our host, Dereck Mackenzie, and Richard Oram gave us an insight into the history and topography of this important castle, once a Lindsay stronghold. The site is defended by steep slopes on three sides, and the tower that remains is thought to be one of the castle’s four original round towers. Ruins were recorded as still standing in the 1840s – the site was later levelled, probably becoming what is today’s garden lawn.

Inshes Tower

The charming Inshes Tower is a diminutive three-storey tower standing in the garden of the 18th century Inshes House. For many years it has been thought to be either a remaining corner tower of the original castle which stood on this site, or a doocot. After close inspection of the harled rubble and ashlar building with our host, John Machin, our experts concluded that this wonderful curiosity had been built as a garden folly or conversation piece, using material salvaged from the demolition of the original castle after the new house was built.

Culloden House

We enjoyed lunch in the grand setting of Culloden House. Now a luxury hotel, this Georgian mansion stands in open parkland and incorporates parts of an earlier tower house which was requisitioned and used by the Young Pretender as his lodging and headquarters before the Battle of Culloden in 1746. The home of Duncan Forbes, Lord Culloden, who was Lord President of the Court of Session, the house had been under siege in the previous year by the Jacobite men of Clan Fraser of Lovat, who had been instructed to capture Forbes. But the siege failed as Forbes had been forewarned. The house was damaged by fire during the Battle of Culloden, and was remodelled in the classical manner in the late 1770s. The ground floor of the original building with its vaults and shotholes has been incorporated in the new mansion.

Rait Castle

We were fascinated by Rait Castle, a 13th century hall house with its massive walls still intact and a magnificent and skilfully constructed vaulted round tower. There is an impressive projecting garderobe tower, and the foundations of ancillary buildings are still evident. Rait is in a good state of preservation for its age, and access is well maintained.

Darnaway Castle

Our final visit was to the remarkable Darnaway Castle, where we were welcomed by our host, the Earl of Moray. The imposing 18th century mansion includes a magnificent 14th century hall, part of the original castle that was erected in 1380 by Thomas Dunbar, 2nd Earl of Moray. Lord Moray welcomed us and guided us into the Georgian entrance hall, explaining Darnaway’s long history and its close connections with the Stuart monarchs. Entering the original hall was a very special moment – the room can accommodate 1000 people and retains its soaring medieval hammerbeam roof, almost unique in Scotland. The Earl’s ancestors have featured in most of the principal events in our history, and his stories brought to life every portrait and artefact in this exceptional setting – a memorable experience.

Would you like to join us?

Our next tour, exclusively for Scottish Castles Association members, is scheduled to take place in 2025. Become a member – we'd love to welcome you.

Mapping the castle locations

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